【視聴数 1113】
【チャンネル名 Kobie M-C】
【タグ 動画,ビデオ,共有,カメラ付き携帯電話,動画機能付き携帯電話,無料,アップロード,チャンネル,コミュニティ,YouTube,ユーチューブ】
ガジェット-youtube動画リンクまとめ ガジェット関係のyoutube動画のリンクをまとめました!ガジェット系のチャンネル探しに便利です!最新の役立つガジェット情報があります!
【視聴数 1113】
【チャンネル名 Kobie M-C】
【タグ 動画,ビデオ,共有,カメラ付き携帯電話,動画機能付き携帯電話,無料,アップロード,チャンネル,コミュニティ,YouTube,ユーチューブ】
「これするだけでおこずかい7000円ゲット!?」中学生でもスマホがあればできる期間限定キャンペーンを利用して7000円分ポイントをゲットする方法がこちらw
【また爆益キター!!】TikTokキャンペーンを利用して簡単に3200円貰う方法がこちらw【期間限定】
Thank you for once again debunking pesky pentax myths!
FWIW I’m thinking really difficult lighting such as outdoor stage, colored lights, and combined with late in the day fading sun on the K3III may do best on “Auto”. The K3III software is generally making good settings choices in the past couple of weeks when trying it here and there (Shout out to Eddy)
In general I’ve always used TAv and float the ISO for live performances, but I’m giving Auto a try with the next event “just because”.
And Kobie, thanks a million for attempting the handheld PixelShift, and finding it successful! Another setting I need to try out. I’m glad to be a subscriber.
I have only tried pixel shift on a tripod, but will try hand held. This video is very helpful and thought provoking for me.
It’s pretty crazy that Pentax has kept pushing for that hand held pixel shift and seem to be making it better and better. I would never think of trying pixel shift in this scenario on my K1 mark 1.
I think you’ve always been correct with the color cast. Yes, it exists, but you basically have to use the camera incorrectly to make it happen.
I still wouldn’t hesitate to pick up this camera if I was shooting more wildlife like you.
Great information. I think it’s important to work with and find the limits of your equipment. This helps you in the future. In the film days, I wouldn’t have dared to consider shooting a low light event without a powerful flash (where allowed). It is truly amazing what modern digital cameras can achieve.
Hello, do you advise updating the firmware, you took pictures on the latest firmware. Thank you.
Kobie, the purple haze is a firmware glitch. The first time I experienced it was in the Pentax K-5. I had just bought a second hand hand DA*16-50mm SDM, and tested it at home, and it was super duper. A friend needed me to take pictures of their Jaguar car, and in the afternoon about magic hour all my photos had a SUBTLE but noticeable purple hue to them……..
I put this down to a firmware glitch where the in-camera corrections for Chromatic Aberrations didn’t get applied to the JPEG. OR, the lens has a floating element and it was a little out-a-wack. But I’ve never ever had the problem ever again on my K-3 or other newer cameras (Post K-5 models).
I think its a firmware glitch, and maybe the floating element.
Now I have had something like it happen in my K-3 for nigh time photography using a Sigma 400mm Telemacro f/5.6 on far away sky scrapers at night. The edges of the sky scrapers had FAT purple fringing against the blackness of the night. I have no other explanation for it. How can you get fat purple fringing on every building that sits in the blackness of the night? Its a firmware glitch. I think I’ve seen it in other peoples images where they’ve complained about it for night time photography with well lit buildings. I think the firmware is not recognizing the purple fringing as CA, but rather as a light source. Now the last time I saw this in someone else’s image, it was a Sigma lens (I think) 18-35mm 1.8.
So you’re stage is all purple, and the camera isn’t correcting for CA’s. Thats my theory on it.
That being said, my K-5, K-3 and other Pentax cameras have been virtually glitch free, compared to the cameras I’ve owned from other major brands. The other brands I’ve had were horrible on glitches and I constantly needed to pull batteries. Hot weather was a problem for one camera brand I owned. But this glitch is weirdness that you don’t expect, because the Pentax firmware generally works flawlessly.
Thanks for the channel Kobie and your great work. Plus all the other Pentax channels, of which there’s 5 or 6 or more now.
That’s certainly given me food for thought, thanks Kobie.
Reminds me how I had quite ugly effects when shooting concerts with K5/K3 + FA35/2 and FA50/1.4. Later I switched to Sig17-50/2.8 and it was much better in such color lighting conditions. Then I got Sigma 35/1.4 and Sigma 18-35/1.8… and things improved even more. Those two lenses can easily be used with open aperture, but the image is free of purple fringing and CA, which provides nice light boost.. so I can even use less ISO and get more dynamic range and better image..